Home

10%

NORTH IS GOOD FOR THE SOUL

A Stand Up Paddle journey in northern Norway

By Jean-Luc Grossmann

September 9^th, 2017

Photography and words : Jean-Luc Grossmann

Original version in French.

Best experience in full screen on desktop.

I am also on Instagram – The Wonders and Cultures of our World : @jlgrossmann

––––––

It all started with an idea in the shower: a stand-up paddle journey in a region of pure, untouched nature and very little civilization. It had to be a beautiful place with a unique atmosphere, physically challenging, and with a touch of danger. We continued following the map north, then further north until we ended up north of Tromsø in Norway, well within the Arctic Circle. There, we spotted some outlying islands with no road connections, unpredictable weather, and the isolation we were seeking.

This cat and mouse game between the clouds and the sun last for hours! As usual the clouds take over.

Half a year later, after months of planning, extensive training in freezing, rainy weather, a weekend expedition to the mountains, and much equipment testing, we are finally facing the ocean and ready to experience the beauty and wilderness of the surrounding islands of Rebbenesøya, Grøtøya, and Nordkvaløya.

The day is perfect. The tension built up in our bodies over the past months disappears as we prepare our boards under the bright sunshine. As soon as we stand on our paddle boards, we feel in harmony with the sea. Silently, without a splash, our blades cut through the beautiful crimson-blue water. Action instantly erases our uncertainties. The landscape smiles at us, and we breathe in the wind of freedom. Life is good to us.

On the first day of our journey, Norway's midnight sun is dishing up a wonderful show for us.

When the wind conditions prevent us from paddling, we discover the region by foot and are always rewarded with awesome seascapes.

Daily life

Little by little, we get used to the Midnight Sun and the fact that summer days last for 24 hours. Each morning, if not evening, marks the start of a new adventure. Before we hit the water, everything – from camping gear and food to water, clothing, and our photography equipment – has to be strapped down to the boards in waterproof bags. We paddle almost every day for 5 to 10 hours. Norway presents us with a mix of weather conditions, but overall, we cover some good distances. Away from the rush of human civilization, we have all the time in the world to observe the magical spectacle of nature.

We are at latitude 70°. Being so far north, the birdwatching is fascinating, with almost hourly puffin flybys, visits from arctic terns on their epic migration from Antarctica, and gliding sea eagles soaring above the vertiginous cliffs nearby. From time to time, a few curious seals poke their heads out of the water, and passing dolphins greet us from a safe distance.

On many occasions, we feel very small beneath mountain walls that plunge into the sea. The ocean has sculpted the landscape here, creating some of the most breathtaking and dramatic views I’ve ever seen. We experience many windy and rainy days but are sometimes rewarded with magical light as the sun shines through the clouds. When wind conditions prevent us from paddling, we explore the region on foot. The scenery on land has nothing to envy from that at sea. The exposed western coast is rugged and menacing, but our paddle boards allow us to get close to shore and access some great camping spots. After setting up camp, the first thing we do is go fishing. In this peaceful environment, facing the sea and nature, we find fishing to be a source of contemplation and meditation. Eating mussels for starters and fish curry as the main course is definitely one of our culinary highlights. We love taking time at the end of each day to sit together and admire our surroundings. Whether it’s sunny or stormy, Norway always puts on a show.

Lulled by the sound of the sea, I fall asleep, filled with a vast sense of well-being, remembering that we often take for granted the things we see around us. From time to time, it’s good to celebrate life and express our gratitude for the natural world we live in.

It's worth to put effort in finding a good camping spot - we are always rewarded with spectacular sceneries.

The main purpose of fishing is not only to catch fish for dinner. It is also a source of contemplation and meditation.

We experience many windy and rainy days, but are rewarded sometimes with magical light as the sun is shining through the clouds.

We paddled almost every day between 5 to 10 hours. Fishing, photography and filming were mostly our occupations while on the water.

The sceneries on land have nothing to envy the ones at sea.

Be curious. Be adventurous. Be safe.

On day 6, the wind suddenly comes to life and challenges us. Headwinds are the biggest adversary for a stand-up paddler. With each paddle stroke, everything is called into question. The effort of each stroke becomes not just a means to an end but an immediate goal. To keep moving forward, we must put everything into our paddles, one stroke after another. The waves make us rise and fall like corks, but despite the bad conditions, our fully packed SUPs handle the ocean swell with conviction, and my body feels at one with the board. Our average speed on the GPS drops to 2 km/h, and the coast never seems to draw closer. We paddle side by side for more than 2 hours. The effort is intense, and for the first time on this journey, doubt crosses my mind: Can we win this fight against the wind? The rain lashes my face, and a group of arctic terns passes overhead before soaring upward. I pull energetically on the shaft of my paddle, staring at the dark horizon. 3 km/h. We are almost there. The closer we get to shore, the more the cliffs provide shelter from the wind. We can now clearly distinguish the little beach in front of us as we use our last strength to enter the cove, surrounded by steep mountain walls. We look at each other as we land. We are exhausted but happy to finally be safe. And now, it’s time to go fishing!

The sound of waves gently breaking on the shore calls to us.

Tent with a view. we have many remarkable camping spots over the two week journey. it is a reward for the days paddling.

Away from the rush of human civilization, we have all the time in the world to observe the magical spectacle of nature.

With great friends comes great photography

We enjoy the creative challenge of capturing nature’s essence on film and appreciate being part of a team, in contrast to the solitary world of freelancing back home. To illustrate and document our journey, we use both photography and a drone for aerial stills and video footage. Being both behind and in front of the camera is unfamiliar yet exciting. I always love seeing how the photos turn out.

The drone provides us with a new and thrilling perspective—I think of it as a flying tripod, taking a camera high into the air to reveal a bird's-eye view of the landscape. To get the right shot while on the water, we must account for the risks of onboard photography. One slight tilt, and our gear could end up in the water. We regularly recharge our photo equipment and drone batteries using two solar panels and a power pack.

Working as an outdoor photographer in northern Norway is a gratifying and inspiring experience. The photo studio and flashlights transform into a vast photography playground lit by the giant spotlight of the midnight sun. With 24 hours of daylight and surrounded by such sumptuous scenery, it’s easy to lose track of time. Every evening, after a long and intense day, as my camera returns to its safe haven inside my Pelican case, I remind myself, “I love my job; this is what I live for.”

We love taking some time at the end of each day to sit together and admire the surroundings.

Being so exposed to the ocean has shaped the landscape, creating some of the most dramatic and breathtaking views i've ever witnessed.

Silently, without a splash, our paddle blades are cutting through the wonderful crimson blue water. Life is good to us.

On many occasions we feel very small as the mountainous cliffs plumb into the sea.

From time to time it is good to celebrate life and express our gratitude towards the natural world we live in.

The island of sørfugløya becomes a sort of friend accompanying us on the way for several days.

King Kong Island

The mystical island of Sørfugløya becomes a sort of friend accompanying us on our journey for several days. During this time, we come up with many nicknames for the island, but the one that resonates with us the most is King Kong's Island. With its spectacular pyramid shape standing out in the Norwegian Sea, it feels like something from a dream. The island is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in Scandinavia. In the early summer months, tens of thousands of puffins, razorbills, and guillemots gather here to nest and rear their young, enjoying the warmth of the Arctic sun.

Great satisfaction comes from sharing with others.

The drone footage offered us a new and thrilling perspective.

We are overwhelmed by the beauty and ruggedness of this region.

Norway is home to the world’s greatest explorers

While paddling, my thoughts often turn to the illustrious Norwegian polar explorers. Roald Amundsen made history and became a national hero in Norway when, accompanied by four men, he reached the South Pole on December 14, 1911. As if this wasn’t enough of an achievement, he was also the first person to navigate the Northwest Passage and the first to fly across the Arctic Ocean.

The Fram, a 39-meter wooden vessel specially built in Norway for polar research, was used by Fridtjof Nansen on a drift over the Arctic Ocean from 1893 to 1896, and the same ship transported Otto Sverdrup to the Arctic archipelago west of Greenland, now called the Nunavut region of Canada. Roald Amundsen also navigated to Antarctica with the Fram for his South Pole expedition.

After 2 hours packing up the equipment and getting the SUP ready, it's a great feeling to be back on the water.

A well deserved dinner after a long paddling day - and finally with the sun!

We have a deep respect for nature. After this journey up North our respect has grown even more.

A journey up North is good for the soul.

Only the spirits of the air know what awaits us behind the mountains. But still we travel onwards.

Mother Nature

Without a doubt, our lives have been influenced and changed by our passion for adventure and exploration. We love Mother Nature, in part because it treats everyone the same. It doesn’t seek anything from you or judge you. It is completely present at all times and is the ultimate teacher of life.

The midnight sun gives us a final farewell. Thank you northern Norway - we will be back !

A big thank you to our supporters : Outdoor Research, Exped, MSR, Sealline, Goal Zero, Airboard, Dador, Pelican, Adidas Eyewear, Visit Tromsø, Adventure Food, Edelkrone, Swiss Advanced.