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MADAGASCAR

The Masoala Peninsula - 160 km of Paradise.

By Jean-Luc Grossmann

Photography and words : Jean-Luc Grossmann

Original version in French.

I am also on Instagram – The Wonders and Cultures of our World: @jlgrossmann

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Pk 18 – Rajery

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With its rich biodiversity, diverse landscapes, and a unique blend of Asian and African cultures, Madagascar has long captivated travelers. In the northeast, the Masoala Peninsula – often referred to as a "nature sanctuary" – is one of the last pristine areas in the country where lush tropical forests meet the shimmering sea.

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Masoala, constantly caressed by warm and humid trade winds, enjoys a mild, rainy climate throughout the year, with only a drier spell from September to November. This region is widely regarded as one of the most stunning areas of Madagascar.

Untamed and challenging to reach, it reveals breathtaking landscapes where lush vegetation meets sparkling turquoise lagoons.

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On a beautiful, sunny day with barely a breeze, we glide away from the small village of Ambodirafia near the East Cape, each paddle stroke rhythmic and steady.

Our kayaks glide smoothly over the tranquil waters of the lagoon. Fishermen haul their nets aboard their pirogues, greeting us with warm smiles and displaying a genuine curiosity about our boats.

To our left, just under a kilometer away, the tumultuous waves of the Indian Ocean crash against the coral reef, creating a constant roar that echoes like thunder.

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Since our departure, the coral reef has shielded us from the Indian Ocean. However, as the lagoon narrows significantly, we find ourselves facing an 11-kilometer stretch in the open sea.

Several times, a giant turtle surfaces just in front of our kayaks, taking a breath before gracefully diving back into the depths. This breathtaking marine environment is teeming with vibrant corals, colorful fish, manta rays, and whale sharks. From June to September, humpback whales migrate from Antarctica to breed and give birth in the southern reaches of the peninsula.

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Our eyes are captivated by a magical realm of shimmering waters and azure hues.

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Exploring Madagascar is a journey filled with one delightful surprise after another, each moment a new wonder waiting to be uncovered.

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Before us lies a stunning white sand beach adorned with swaying palm trees, beckoning us to come ashore. Just a short distance away, the village of Atsambavy awaits. As we set foot on land, a few villagers – curious to see two "vazahs" (white men) arriving by sea – slowly make their way toward us, their expressions a mix of surprise and intrigue.

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Before long, the entire village gathers around us. The elders examine our kayaks with keen interest, inspecting every detail from bow to stern, while the children cheer with delight, eagerly bringing us fresh coconuts. This warm reception is a testament to the legendary hospitality of the Malagasy people.

But where is Angie ! ?

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Training on the calm waters of the lagoon.

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Mangroves are among the most productive and biodiverse ecosystems on Earth, yet they face significant threats to their survival.

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Madagascar is home to an astounding 19,000 plant species and over 100,000 invertebrate species. However, it is the 35 species of lemurs that truly symbolize the unique biodiversity of the island. Remarkably, 85% of its flora and fauna is endemic, making Madagascar a living showcase of evolution.

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Acknowledgement

A well-planned expedition with solid infrastructure is key to success. A heartfelt thank you to our sponsors for their trust and support!

Air Madagascar for sponsoring our flights and the transport of our sea kayaks.

Prijon for providing us with two Kodiak sea kayaks, stream paddles, and deck bags.

Exped for supplying us with outdoor equipment.

Artistic Sportswear for outfitting us with sea kayaking clothing.

This expedition would not have been possible without the special authorization from ANGAP to paddle around the Masoala Peninsula. Many thanks to the following ANGAP staff: Mr. Parfait Randriamampianina, Seraphin, Jean-Émilien, Nestor, and Émilien from the Tanjona Marine Reserve, as well as Jube, Roland, Paulin, and Felix.

We also want to express our gratitude to:

Sandra and Pierre from the Masoala Forest Lodge for their incredible hospitality and friendship. The Masoala Forest Lodge in Tampolo is the perfect base for exploring the Tampolo Marine Reserve and the primary forest of Masoala.

Rakoto from Coco Beach in Maroantsetra, who is the go-to person for organizing your stay and providing assistance in every situation.

Liliane, who has been like a mother to us and our anchor in Tana.

Françoise and Didier from Eastern Tour for their invaluable help on numerous occasions.

Marie-Hélène from Vinanivao.

Edmond from Las Palmas in Antalaha.

Mr. Badady Roland, Senator of Antalaha.

And last but not least, to all the wonderful Malagasy and "vazaha" people we encountered during our journey!

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Meet the team: Angie and Jean-Luc reside in Zurich, Switzerland, where they are proud parents to two energetic boys, aged 13 and 10 years.

Publication : Magazine Canoe & Kayak

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© 2026 Jean-Luc Grossmann

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