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GREENLAND

In search of the unknown supraglacial lakes

By Jean-Luc Grossmann

November 6^th, 2022

Fully self supported stand up paddling expedition along Greenland’s icy and wild northwest coast.

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Photography, videography and words : Jean-Luc Grossmann

I am also on Instagram – The Wonders and Cultures of our World : @jlgrossmann

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Welcome to my Greenland diary. Best experience in full screen on desktop. Recommended music for reading 🔊👇🏼

Instrumental Music – Unconditional True Love

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In the summer of 2022, I embarked on my third expedition to the land of giant icebergs. After three years of planning and facing several setbacks due to the pandemic, it was finally time for adventure again – a 450 km, fully self-supported stand-up paddling journey along Greenland's wild and spectacular northwest coast in search of the elusive supraglacial lakes.

Setting up this expedition and working as an adventure photographer in such a remote part of the world was both challenging and humbling. A lot of hard work, commitment and endurance went into capturing my personal vision and perspective on the icy landscapes of Greenland. Now, after a year of sharing what I have learned and experienced, I would like to thank you all for your interest, constant motivation and the excitement you’ve shown. Qujanaq! 🙏🏻🙌🏼

Iceberg wall – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Lonely iceberg – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Greenland evokes feelings of harmony, peace and tranquility. It’s an environment that fosters deep personal reflection and more than anywhere else I have been, I felt a profound connection to nature and to myself. I’m not particularly spiritual but I do believe that some places can have a powerful and to some extent spiritual effect on me.

Ice comes in many mesmerizing forms and shapes. During our daily 8-hour paddles we discovered all kinds of abstract creatures, animals and faces in the shapes of icebergs. They felt like ancient supernatural guardians guiding us safely to the next camp and protecting us on our journey.

Each iceberg is unique! I remember how exciting it was to see these moving ice sculptures for the first time back in 2005 during my first sea kayaking expedition and my enthusiasm has not waned one bit over the years. These sleeping beauties attract me like a magnet and on several occasions I have to remind myself not to paddle too close and to maintain a safe distance.

Stand up paddler in front of iceberg – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg in fog – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Looking at this shot I took with my drone a few weeks ago in North Greenland, the expression "only seeing the tip of the iceberg" takes on its full meaning.

The densities of ice and seawater are very similar. Icebergs float in water with about 10% above the surface and 90% below the waterline because they are lighter (less dense) than seawater. Given this, one must be aware that ice can break off iceberg walls not only from above the surface but also from beneath.

Drone shot of two stand up paddlers paddling next to huge iceberg – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Be curious, be adventurous, be safe – we all deserve the life of our dreams. 🚀⭐️

At first, the dream of reaching a supraglacial lake on Greenland’s massive ice sheet seemed like an impossible feat as we faced many challenges. But as my favorite Inuit proverb says so well: "Only the spirit of the air knows what awaits us behind the mountains, but still we travel onward." And here we are, after three years of waiting, with ups and downs, finally standing along the edge of this vibrant blue meltwater lake – our lake – just magic!

Glacier lake on Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Drone shot of stand up paddlers paddling between icebergs – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Supraglacial lake on Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

"A journey well shared is a journey well enjoyed." I’m so grateful to have had you on the team, @misstalfourd. Thank you for being such a fantastic paddling and travel buddy – you’re awesome and unstoppable! 🙌

Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Greenland ice sheet wall – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg – Stand up paddling expedition in Greenland.

The life cycle of an iceberg can vary greatly depending on several factors, such as size, shape, ice quality, water temperature and prevailing weather conditions.

Icebergs are one of nature's most spectacular creations and when the light of the midnight sun comes into play, mystery and magic envelops them.

Stand up paddler in front of huge iceberg – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Split photography connects the landscape with the underwater world and reveals the beauty that lies just beneath the surface of the sea.

Iceberg with underwater world – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

3 stand up paddlers in Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg photograph with underwater world – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

I'm always ready to paddle an extra mile for the perfect campsite! Camping wild by the water's edge recharges my batteries and revitalizes my soul.

Camping spot in Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Greenland is the place to see ice in all its spectacular forms: big, bigger, and absolutely huge. Calved from the majestic inland ice, icebergs consist of tightly compressed snow that fell on Greenland thousands of years ago. Like ponderous actors in an eternal drama, they set the scene for an out-of-this-world experience. In winter, trapped in the pack ice, they resemble frozen pieces in nature’s great game – spectacular and awe-inspiring. In summer, they become floating sculptures embarking on a long and uncertain voyage guided only by the wind and current. From my paddleboard I get a true demonstration of their size as they tower high above me.

Iceberg under the light of the midnight sun – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg waterfall – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg shape – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

The black-legged kittiwake is the most common gull in Greenland. It is often found in large colonies resting on icebergs near cliff walls where they nest and rear their young.

Away from the rush of human civilization, I have all the time in the world to observe the magical spectacle of nature.

Gulls on iceberg – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Supraglacial lakes on Greenland’s ice sheet are captivating. By mid-summer each year, vibrant blue meltwater lakes appear on the surface. These lakes can reach kilometers in size and several meters in depth. Their formation is driven by temperature, topography and elevation. Supraglacial lakes store large amounts of fresh water; while they can drain in hours, they may also last for months.

Ice is impermeable, and meltwater can’t be absorbed back into the ice. Some lakes freeze again in winter while others slowly empty through a stream or river flowing toward the ice sheet margin. However, roughly 13% of the lakes drain within a day or even just a few hours through hydro fracture – a crack formed at the base of the ice sheet that propagates to the surface directly beneath the lake basin. The bottom of the lake then opens due to pressure and the water runs straight down hundreds of meters to the bed of Greenland’s ice sheet.

Glacier hike on Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Glacier hike on Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling expedition in Greenland.

Glacier hike to lake on Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling expedition in Greenland.

As my father use to say : "It’s better to know where you are without knowing where you’re going, than to know where you’re going without knowing where you are."

Stand up paddler in front of iceberg – Stand up paddling expedition in Greenland.

The day is perfect. As soon as I stand on my board, I feel in harmony with the sea. Silently, my paddle blade cuts through the beautiful crimson-blue water and the wind of freedom gently caresses my face. I am overwhelmed by Greenland's ever-changing landscape; nothing stands still, everything is in motion. Everywhere I look there is beauty. I'm going with the flow fully savoring every moment!

Stand up paddler in front of huge iceberg wall – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Stand up paddlers with huge glacier in the background – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Whether in dream life or real life, seek out these moments of freedom.

Little by little, I get used to the Midnight Sun and the fact that the summer days last for 24 hours. Each morning marks the start of a new adventure. Before hitting the water, everything – from camping gear and food to water, clothing and photography equipment – has to be strapped down to the boards in waterproof bags. Greenland presents a mixed bag of weather conditions but overall we make steady progress of 30 kilometers each day when the wind or current isn’t against us.

We are at latitude 74°. Being so far north, visits from arctic terns on their epic migration from Antarctica are a welcome change to our daily routine and from time to time a few curious seals poke their heads out of the water from a safe distance. I feel very small when paddling beneath mountain walls that plunge into the sea and sometimes we have to go on for several kilometers before finding a suitable landing spot. Over the three-week journey we discover many remarkable campsites; they are a reward for the long paddling days. After setting up the tents, fishing is always the next priority. In this spectacular and peaceful environment, facing the sea and nature, we experience fishing as a source of contemplation and meditation. On sunny days, when possible, we wash ourselves in the clear, freezing water of small streams. While we sleep we recharge the batteries of our watches, GPS devices and walkie-talkies with the help of our solar panels. We keep a journal and take note of the GPS points of each campsite and the distances paddled.

Lulled by the sound of the sea, I fall asleep filled with a vast sense of well-being remembering that we often take the things we see around us for granted. From time to time it's good to celebrate life and express gratitude for the natural world we live in.

Camping spot – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Outdoor photograph of Garmin watch – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

camping spot with icebergs in the background – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Simply let go and paddle with the flow. When I manage to free myself from the mental count of the remaining kilometers to the next campsite, I can truly immerse myself in the present moment fully embracing the adventure and the experience of the journey itself.

Stand up paddler paddling close to huge iceberg wall – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Greenland landscape with icebergs and mountain – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

We love taking some time at the end of each day to sit together and admire our surroundings. After this new journey up north my bond with nature and the outdoors has become even stronger!

Greenland landscape with hikers walking next to shore and sea full of icebergs in the background. – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

To stroll with my camera through the small village of Kullorsuaq is a very special experience; it reveals so much about the people and their way of life. I can spend hours wandering around capturing the essence of the location.

Outdoor person standing under the midnight sun – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

wooden house in small village in northern Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

House window in Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

I can’t get enough of this icy landscape – always in motion, never standing still, reshaping every day to the rhythm of nature.

The best part of our campsites is undoubtedly the surrounding scenery. With a sea full of icebergs as far as the eye can see, the morning coffee was simply sublime, and life has never felt so simple!

Outdoor camp life in Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Working as an adventure photographer in amazing Greenland was a gratifying and inspiring experience. For a month, I swapped my photo studio and flash strobes for a vast outdoor photography playground lit by the mighty spotlight of the midnight sun. With 24 hours of daylight, surrounded by such sumptuous scenery, it was easy to lose track of time and space. Every evening, after a long and intense day, as my camera returned to its safe haven inside my Peli case, I would say to myself “I love my job; this is what I live for!”

Preparing photography equipment in Peli cases with icebergs in the background – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Camping life with tent – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Freezing a moment in time – the beauty of experiencing Greenland’s ice is something you will never forget.

Greenland is not just ice and spectacular nature; it also has towns and settlements that like so much else in this magnificent country offer overwhelming contrasts.

Life in Greenland revolves around the seasons but what really matters is not the time of year or what the thermometer reads but the warmth of its people. Inuits have retained their language and much of their cultural heritage. Social and daily life is a combination of the past and the present.

A visit to one of the small settlements is like a trip back to original Greenland, where life is lived at a different pace and where there is always time for a chat.

Many settlements are self-sufficient and rely almost exclusively on hunting and fishing. In some areas, people depend on supplies from outside, so the arrival of the first ship of the year is met with eager anticipation.

Village in Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Inuit portrait – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Greenland dog – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

The path to happiness can be a long and winding journey, but magic will happen if you dare to step out of your comfort zone!

Outdoor life – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Hike to Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

The main goal of the expedition was to reach one of the unknown and spectacular blue meltwater lakes that form each year by mid-summer on Greenland’s ice sheet.

The plan was to pack our two ultralight stand up paddleboards and glacier equipment and hike to the edge of the ice sheet, from where we would travel as a four-rope team to reach this hidden secret of nature.

While still in Switzerland, planning and checking the satellite imagery my gut feeling told me not to underestimate the effort required to reach a so-called supraglacial lake, even if it was located “only” 1 or 2 km from the ice edge. We would first have to hike a long way up on land through unknown terrain carrying heavy backpacks before even reaching the ice sheet and then we would need a good weather window. Furthermore, covering the story with photography and drone imagery would take time.

I thought we could try to reach a lake not too far inland on the ice just to gauge the ice conditions. If we felt confident, we could then go for more, but not pushing it too far would probably be wise – unless the terrain was really easy and safe. We were all somewhat glacier rookies and agreed that safety was our top priority.

A week prior to our departure, I checked the satellite maps and located five potential supraglacial lakes that might be reached on our paddling route to Kullorsuaq. In the end, we only made it to the very last one! All the other lakes were either too far away on the inland ice, the terrain on land was too challenging and dangerous, the weather conditions were too poor or the lake had simply drained away!

In total, it took us five long and intense days to reach the fifth and final lake (lying 1.5 km from the ice edge) and to hike back to our base camp near the shore.

Glacier lake with stand up paddler on Greenland ice sheet – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

I love the time spent out there photographing first thing in the morning. It’s during these moments that my inspiration is at its strongest, and they remain vivid in my mind.

Walking close to shore with amazing icebergs backdrop – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

I don't mind harsh weather conditions! Being out there, feeling the elements connects me to nature and clears my mind. Without a doubt, adventuring in Greenland can be a challenging experience but it gives you so much in return.

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I roam

Through sunshine and rain

With nothing but pain

River of hopes and dreams

Not always what it seems

A gift that’s rare

How can you dare?

Now that it’s gone

Heal and live on.

– JLG, March 16, 2023 – #mypoems #truefriendship #goneforever

Hiker in Greenland – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Iceberg shape and structure – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Arctic tern flying by – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Greenland is an immense playground for those seeking adventure, but it’s also a place where you can find peace and space for reflection.

The fog can create a sense of mystery and intrigue, as you never quite know what you might discover.

Iceberg in thick fog with stand up paddler – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

When working as an adventure and outdoor photographer anticipation is key. While on the water I have to consider not only the extra paddling distances needed to get into the right position but also the risks of "on-board" photography – one slight tilt and my gear could end up in the water. I'm always aiming to frame the paddler in perfect equilibrium with the surroundings to convey the berg’s epic scale. I mostly use my telephoto lens to bring the subject closer to the background. Many factors affect the final picture, including the paddle position, lines and composition, the contrast between the stand-up paddler and the backdrop, and even the play of light and shadows.

To illustrate and document the journey, I use both photography and a drone for aerial stills and video footage providing a new and thrilling perspective of the landscape. I recharge my photo equipment and the drone batteries regularly using two solar panels and a power pack.

Drone shot with 3 stand up paddlers looking at a sea full of icebergs – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Each adventure we experience and each culture we encounter is part of our life journey and, ultimately, our heart.

Tent at camping spot– Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Stand up paddler in front of huge cliff wall – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Captivated by the frozen wonderland – a 24/7 sunlit journey amidst enchanting icebergs – a world in white, a life of illusion. 💙

Icebergs backdrop – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Regular training sessions, well-thought-out planning and the right equipment are key to any successful self-supported expedition. Organize and prepare as much as you can before the trip. Once the adventure has started, go with the flow and adapt bit by bit. Throughout the years, I have learned that these six points are essential:

1. Allocate enough time for the trip – being tied to a fixed schedule and having to force progression could expose you to danger.

2. Know the strengths and weaknesses of each team member.

3. Remain focused and alert right after the heat of the action – accidents often occur when concentration decreases, for example, right after paddling a difficult stretch when immediate danger seems to have passed.

4. The knowledge of each team member enhances collective decision-making.

5. Always understand how your outdoor equipment works and take care of it. Conduct some field testing prior to your adventure.

6. Last but not least, have fun, stay positive, and be supportive – expeditions can be challenging at times and maintaining a positive attitude and open-mindedness can make a big difference for you and your team.

Iceberg from above – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

After a month of experiencing the wonders of living outdoors under the light of the midnight sun, I sometimes find it hard to be back within four walls and face darkness again.

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I am also on Instagram – The Wonders and Cultures of our World : @jlgrossmann

I want to acknowledge all those who helped make this adventure a reality. 🙏🏼

@visitgreenland / @expedint / @airboard_switzerland / @msr_gear / @seallinegear / @goalzero / drydor waterwear / @garmin / @peli_products / @katadyn_group / satellite communication

Team : PlanetVisible and @misstalfourd

Group photo – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

Experience Greenland from a bird's eye view 🔊👇🏼

Get a unique glimpse of our planet and treat yourself or a friend to an exclusive gift.

This set of fine art prints from my recent expedition in North Greenland is just waiting to find its way to your shelf.

Available in A5 or A4 format. Make your personal selection of 5 out of 10 fine art prints. Each print is signed on the back.

The prints come in a creative kraft cardboard folder, stamped, with a string and button closure.

Link to store:

https://www.photopulse.ch/store-fine-art-photography-prints

Fine art prints – Stand up paddling adventure in Greenland.

I am very happy with this photo series. The fine art prints are not just physical objects for sale; they are also pieces of my heart and soul, reflecting my personal vision and perspective on the icy world of Greenland. If you’re interested, you can find more information and prices on my website. (Link above) 🙏🏻