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CABO VERDE

The Land Of Morabeza

By Jean-Luc Grossmann

Photography : Jean-Luc Grossmann / Words : Adrian Stitzel

Original version in German.

I am also on Instagram – The Wonders and Cultures of our World : @jlgrossmann

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Belga – Cesária Evora

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Bathed in light, wind, and water, the 15 small islands of the Cape Verde archipelago shimmer like a string of pearls off the coast of Africa. Here, dense tropical vegetation, volcanic craters, and sun-drenched dunes create a striking contrast, inhabited by resilient people who, despite their challenges, refuse to be defeated.

Our journey begins and ends – like that of all visitors – on Sal, where flights from Europe arrive and depart at Amílcar Cabral International Airport, named after the nation's founder. We don’t linger long, for the allure of the surrounding islands – Santo Antão, São Vicente, São Nicolau, and Fogo – is irresistible. These islands reveal the true essence of the archipelago: the purity of nature, the satisfaction of local fishermen, the laughter of children, and the warmth and openness of the people. Their complex emotions – melancholy, poverty, and joy – are beautifully expressed through their music.

“Sodade” is the term they use to describe a profound longing for a cherished place or person – something that feels just out of reach. Initially, we feel immune to it, but once we return home, it envelops us, lingering until we secure our next trip to Cape Verde.

Fishing in Cape Verde is largely a manual endeavor, with fishermen methodically hauling in their long nets, the rhythmic motion a testament to their skill and patience.

The fishermen

At five o'clock in the morning, before the sun has risen, the sea is calm and forgiving. The port of Punta do Sol on the island of Santo Antão buzzes with activity as preparations for the day’s fishing begin. Fishermen load nets, plastic lines, and fishing rods onto their modest boats, readying themselves for the day's catch.

Everyone knows their role, and little is said. Even out at sea, as the ten-person team repeatedly casts and retrieves the nets, moving from one spot to another, communication is minimal – a quick command here and there is all that's needed. Navigating the unpredictable whims of the sea demands their full concentration and focus.

The fishermen keep a keen eye on the surface of the sea; as soon as it begins to sparkle, they know the mackerel are near. They approach the school, casting their nets while steering the boat in a wide arc to encircle the fish. Just before the circle closes, one fisherman, equipped with a diving mask and fins, leaps into the water, striking the surface with his arm to prevent any last-minute escapes. Often, this maneuver must be repeated several times until the fish are finally trapped within the net.

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But the hardest work is still ahead: the full net must be hauled in. With loud shouts, the fishermen pull it aboard, inch by inch. As time goes on, their movements grow slower and more laborious, but the effort pays off – the net is brimming with fish.

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More than 50 percent of Cape Verde's population relies on agriculture and fishing for their livelihoods. Despite having a vast 700,000 km² economically viable marine zone rich in fish, these waters remain largely untapped. The country faces challenges due to insufficient funding for larger vessels and cold storage facilities. To address this, foreign organizations are stepping in to support the modernization of the fishing sector. With the diverse array of fish available, there is potential to reduce dependence on agriculture and foreign food aid in the long term.

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Later, around midday, the fishing boats are eagerly anticipated by the fishermen’s wives and children. Seagulls circling overhead signal the daily peak as the boats finally come into view. Once they land, a lively scramble for the freshest catch ensues. The women often compete for the best pieces, engaging in spirited discussions that, to foreign ears, may sound like arguments. But this vibrant exchange is a daily ritual, brief yet intense. Time is of the essence—the fish must quickly make their way to restaurants, family tables, or be exported to Europe.

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The perspective on things

"Sodade" – the deep longing – has also captured Jean-Luc Grossmann. Having visited the archipelago three times, he is enchanted by its unspoiled beauty and the warmth of its people. He believes in fully immersing himself in the culture, losing himself before capturing any photographs. He approaches his subjects with genuine curiosity, forging connections that go beyond the lens.

In the port of São Filipe on Fogo, he encounters a group of fishermen who have just returned from a long day at sea, animatedly discussing their experiences. Jean-Luc quietly takes a seat on one of the boats, observing them closely. His gaze is drawn to Manuel, the eldest among the group, who commands a unique respect from the others. Soon, Manuel approaches, and they engage in a conversation filled with hand gestures and sketches.

When Jean-Luc asks if he can join them on their fishing expedition, Manuel explains that they will set out at 4 a.m. and won’t return until noon. Before parting ways, Manuel poses for a portrait, beaming with pride as he crosses his arms in front of his boat. For Jean-Luc Grossmann, these encounters transcend mere documentation; they are an essential part of his journey.

"The true charm of travel lies in the connections you forge along the way. It's about engaging with people and immersing yourself in their lives."

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The sentiment is mutual: people often feel honored to be photographed by him, revealing their true selves in the process.

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Once caught, the tuna is swiftly transported to the bustling São Filipe market, where it becomes the centerpiece of the day’s trade.

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Manuel, the fisherman, stands proudly in front of his boat.

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The children

The children of Cape Verde embody a vibrant love for life. In Salamansa Bay on the island of São Vicente, a simple sand dune and a few old tires are all it takes to spark joy and laughter among a group of delighted children.

“Um, dois, três!” shouts the oldest, and suddenly everyone is racing down the slope at breathtaking speed, their joyful shouts echoing through the air.

They tirelessly climb the dune once more, tires slung over their shoulders. Each ascent is met with the same radiant smiles, pure joy shining on their faces.

A towering sand dune and a few worn tires provide endless entertainment for a lively group of children.

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"When we arrive in Fontainas, we encounter a striking girl with big black eyes, accompanied by her siblings. Their mother is gently combing her hair. Each of them glances at my camera—some with confidence, others shy, surprised, and playful."

Die Salamansa-Bucht
bei São Vicente:
Ein beliebter Tummelplatz
der Kinder. — Die Salamansa-Bucht bei São Vicente: Ein beliebter Tummelplatz der Kinder.

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Joaquin eagerly requests a photo, his face and body dusted with sand. He’s determined to capture the moment of his spectacular dive into the water. With a running start, he charges forward and executes a flawless somersault, splashing into the sea with exuberance.

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In Cape Verde, children symbolize joy, prosperity, and a sense of security for the future, especially in times of illness and old age. Approximately 45 percent of the Cabo Verdean population is under the age of 15, and in rural areas, it's common for families to have more than five children. These kids grow up in a carefree environment, nurtured and protected by the entire village. In contrast, urban families tend to be smaller, often consisting of just one or two children. With parents working long hours and extended family living far away, childcare can be uncertain. As a result, these children quickly learn to entertain themselves, using their boundless imagination to stave off boredom. Encounters with travelers provide them with a refreshing change and a glimpse into different worlds.

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The landscape

The sea and wind have intricately sculpted the landscape of Cape Verde, sometimes wild and relentless, other times gently soothing. Millions of years ago, these volcanic islands emerged from the depths of the ocean, leaving behind a legacy of dramatic geological features. Evidence of this volcanic origin can be seen in the numerous extinct cones and craters scattered across all the islands. The crown jewel of this archipelago is Pico de Fogo, the only active volcano and the tallest peak at 2,829 meters, located on the island of the same name in the south. Here, wind and water continuously erode the terrain, creating fantastically shaped mountain ranges, carved riverbeds, and striking blackened ridges, along with contrasting black and white beaches. Each impression tells a story of nature's relentless artistry.

In this tranquil haven, free from the clamor of Western hustle and bustle, the magical natural spectacle unfolds undisturbed. Wisps of mist gracefully ascend, momentarily parting to reveal the breathtaking landscape – towering mountain walls, lush meadows, serene valleys, and enchanting forests. Each fleeting glimpse invites deeper exploration of this serene beauty.

The white sand dunes yield to the wind, gracefully winding their way across the beach landscape. Scattered trees cling to life on the stark black volcanic soil that lies beneath the towering volcanic cone. In the cities, life buzzes with energy: children head off to school, locals gather in workshops and shops for friendly exchanges, and small aluminum buses navigate the streets, their drivers keenly searching for passengers. Yet, amidst this vibrant activity, the wind never ceases to blow, and the distant roar of the sea remains a constant, powerful presence.

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This story was published in the renowned b&w German magazine Schwarzweiss Magazin.

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© 2026 Jean-Luc Grossmann

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