NORTH IS GOOD FOR THE SOUL

It all started with an idea under the shower. A stand up paddle journey in a region of pure untouched nature and very little civilization. It needed to be a beautiful place with a particular feel, physically challenging with a touch of danger. We kept following the map north, then further north and north of that until we ended up north of Tromsø in Norway, well within the Arctic Circle. There we spied some outlying islands with no road connection, unpredictable weather and the isolation we were seeking.

Half a year later after months in the planning, lots of training in freezing rainy weather, a weekend expedition to the mountains and much equipment testing, we are finally facing the ocean and ready to taste the beauty and wilderness of the surrounding islands of Rebbenesøya, Grøtøya and Nordkvaløya.

The day is perfect. The tension built up in our bodies over the last months disappears as we get our boards ready under the bright sunshine. As soon as we stand on our SUPs we feel in harmony with the sea. Silently, without a splash, our paddle blades are cutting through the wonderful crimson blue water. Action instantly erases our uncertainties. The landscape smiles at us and we breathe the wind of freedom. Life is good to us.

Daily life

Little by little we get used to the Midnight Sun and the fact that the summer days last for 24 hours. Each morning, if not evening, is the start of a new adventure. Before we hit the water everything from camping gear, food, water, clothing, not to mention our photography equipment has to be strapped down to the boards in waterproof bags. We paddle almost every day between 5 to 10 hours. Norway brings us a mixed bag of weather conditions but overall we cover some good distances. Away from the rush of human civilization, we have all the time in the world to observe the magical spectacle of nature.

We are at latitude 70°. Being so far north, the bird watching is fascinating, with almost hourly puffin flybys, visits from the arctic tern on its epic migrating journey from Antarctica and gliding sea eagles off the vertiginous cliffs nearby. From time to time a few curious seals poke their heads out of the water and passing dolphins greet us from a safe distance.

On many occasions we feel very small beneath mountain walls that plunge into the sea. The ocean has sculpted the landscape here, creating some of the most breathtaking and dramatic views I've ever seen. We experience many windy and rainy days, but are rewarded sometimes with magical light as the sun shines through the clouds. When the wind conditions prevent us from paddling, we explore the region on foot. The sceneries on land have nothing to envy the ones at sea. The exposed western coast is rugged and menacing but our SUP’s allow us to get close to shore and give us access to some great camping spots. After setting camp, the first thing we would do is to go fishing. In this peaceful environment, facing the sea, facing nature, we experience fishing as a source of contemplation and meditation. Eating mussels for starters and fish curry as a main course is definitely one of our culinary highlights. We love taking some time at the end of each day to sit together and admire the surroundings. Whether its sunny or stormy, Norway always puts on a show.

Lulled by the sound of the sea I fall asleep invaded by a vast sense of well-being, remembering that we often take for granted the things we see around us. From time to time it is good to celebrate life and express our gratitude for the natural world we live in.

Be curious. Be adventurous. Be safe.

On day 6 the wind suddenly comes to life and challenges us. Headwind is the biggest adversary of a stand up paddler. From one paddle stroke to the next, everything is questioned. The effort of each stroke is now not just a means to an end but an immediate goal. To keep on moving forward, we must put everything into our paddle, one stroke after the other. The waves make us rise and fall like a cork but Despite the bad conditions, the SUP’s fully packed are handling the ocean swell with conviction and my body feels at one with the board. Our average speed on the GPS drops down to 2 km/h and the coast never seems to draw closer. We are now paddling side by side for more than 2 hours. The effort is intense and for the first time on the journey doubt is crossing my mind; Can we win this fight against the wind? The rain whips my face and a group of arctic terns pass over my head before speeding upwards. I pull energetically on the shaft of my paddle, staring at the dark horizon. 3 km/h. We are almost there. The closer we get to shore, the more the cliffs offer us wind shelter. We can now clearly distinguish the little beach in front of us as we use our last strength entering the cove surrounded by steep mountain walls. We look at each other as we land. We are exhausted but happy to finally be safe. And now, its time to go fishing!

With great friends comes great photography

We enjoy the creative challenge of capturing nature’s essence on film and find it nice to be part of a team instead of the singular world of freelancing back home. To illustrate and document our journey we use both photography and a drone for aerial stills and video footage. The fact of being behind and in front of the camera is unfamiliar and exciting at the same time. I always love seeing how the photos turned out.

The drone offers us a new and thrilling perspective - I think of it as a flying tripod taking a camera high in the air and revealing a bird's eye view of the landscape. To get the right shot while on the water we have to take into account the risk of 'on-board' photography. One slight tilt and our gear can end up in the water. We recharge our photo equipment and the drone batteries on a regular basis using 2 solar panels and a power pack.

Working as an outdoor photographer in northern Norway is a gratifying and inspiring experience. The photo studio and the flashlights turn into a huge photography playground lit by the giant spotlight of the midnight sun. With 24 hours of daylight, surrounded by these sumptuous sceneries it is easy to forget the time. Every evening, after a long and intensive day, as my camera returns to its safe haven inside my pelican case, I say to myself; „I love my job, this is what I live for.“

King Kong Island

The mystic island of Sørfugløya becomes a sort of friend accompanying us on the way for several days. Over this time period we come up with many nick names for this island but the one it reminds us of the most is that of King Kong's island. With its spectacular pyramid shape standing out in the Norwegian Sea it feels like something from a dream. The island is one of the most important bird sanctuaries in Scandinavia. In the early summer months, tens of thousands of puffins, razorbills and guillemots gather here to nest and rear their young ones, enjoying the warmth of the arctic sun.

Norway is home to the world’s greatest explorers

While paddling, my thoughts often go to the illustrious Norwegian polar explorers. Roald Amundsen made history and became a national hero in Norway when accompanied by four men, reaching the South Pole on 14 December 1911. As if this wasn’t enough of an achievement, he was also the first man to navigate the Northwest Passage, and the first to fly across the Arctic Ocean.

The Fram, a 39 meter wooden vessel specially built in Norway for polar research, was used by Fridtjof Nansen on a drift over the Arctic Ocean from 1893 to 1996 and the same ship transported Otto Sverdrup to the arctic archipelago west of Greenland, now called the Nunavut region of Canada. Roald Amundsen also navigated to Antarctica with the Fram for his South Pole expedition.

Mother Nature

Without any doubt our lives have been influenced and changed by the passion for adventure and exploration. We love Mother Nature in part because it treats everyone the same. It does not seek anything from you or judge you. It is completely present at all time and is the ultimate teacher of life.

THIS STAND UP PADDLE JOURNEY IS MY SECOND PROJECT UNDER THE NAME PLANETVISIBLE, A COLLABORATION WITH PHOTOGRAPHERS JUSTIN HESSION AND PASCAL RICHARD. WE ALL GREW UP IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD BUT IT’S OUR SHARED PASSION IN STORYTELLING AND VISUAL IMAGERY THAT HAS BONDED US AS FRIENDS. OUR FRIENDSHIP HAS GROWN INTO A COLLABORATION WHERE TOGETHER WE SEEK TO EXPLORE, DOCUMENT AND SHARE STORIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD, WITH THE WORLD. CHECK OUR WORK ON WWW.PLANETVISIBLE.COM

A big thank you to our supporters : Outdoor Research, Exped, MSR, Sealline, Goal Zero, Airboard, Dador, Pelican, Adidas Eyewear, Visit Tromsø, Adventure Food, Edelkrone, Swiss Advanced.